The Fijian islands were first populated by refugees from South Africa, who were fleeing an epidemic, according to our Fijian Quizmaster on South Sea Island. The Fijians were cannibals, and in an entertaining skit performed by townspeople on Waya Lalai Island, they deftly covered the most famous incident of cannibalism. The missionary Rev. Baker became the only person of European descent to be eaten by Fijian cannibals when, according to the actors, he went to touch the chief's head to demonstrate how glasses are worn. The Fijians attacked him with big evil cudgels, Rev. Baker fell to the floor, and now we know why a new identity in Christianity is most welcome to modern Fijians (there's innate guilt in such a history).

Our actors also performed a fashion show of traditional dress, in which the moral was: "Imagine how shocked the first missionaries were to find all the natives only half dressed. Now imagine how surprised we are to be visited by the same [half dressed people]." I defintely can concur on that point - some of the visitors have no sensitivity to dress standards of the culture. While all the Fijian women are in full length dresses, the visitors rarely put on clothes over their bikinis for dinner or whatnot. I even saw some girls tanning sunny side up, on a beach that was hardly private. (Bet Jonas got a good eyeful there, scanning the beach from his yacht with his binoculars.)

In the end the Yasawa Islands were quite enjoyable - the resorts and the Fijians more so than the other visitors. It seems about 90% of the travellers were 20-23, in or just out of college. Their holy-grail: tanning on the beach. I think tanning is a great way to ruin your skin, so I don't identify with the girls there. I think this is largely the same crowd I will be running into in hostals on the Eastern Australian coast, so I might have to do more fishing to search out a more interesting crowd.

One interesting couple I forgot to mention: a Hungarian woman, 32, married to a very grumpled man, who apparently was independently wealthy. They have been travelling for the last 3 years, as they will, and they have been married 3 years. They go home only to meet relatives and check on their two houses. I am thinking the Hungarian woman has it pretty good. (So does the man.)

I am off to Auckland tonight, and Cairns tomorrow. I have decided to concentrate more of my coastal travels in Queensland, and then sprint down to Sydney when Stacey comes into town. The goal is to rectify my previous traveling mistake of trucking through an area too fast.

Labels: australia, cannibals, cultures, fiji, people, women, yasawa

Jonas was a fisherman yachtee from San Francisco, who set anchor in the bay next to Korovou resort. With Richard Gere looks and surfer-dude talk, he provided a good dose of American, that I had not been privy to for a few weeks. He is sailing around the world in his 35 foot yacht by himself. The stories! It is a whole other life to drift with wind and current to discover the world, and anchor in places where no other tourist can manage to infiltrate. I have silently added sailing around the world as something that would be agreeable to do... right up there with visiting the moon.

My 3 nights at Korovou resort on Naviti island were quite enjoyable not only because of good conversation with Jonas, but also another American, the 3rd burnt-out lawyer I've met, who was interested in triathlon pursuits, and therefore flattered me with a million questions about it. Also, the Fijians were very friendly there. One silent, thoughtful fellow named Kiloti, who could musingly croon over his guitar, gave me a bit of the scoop on the Fijian life. Apparently there is one Fijian language, called Bula!, and each island has its own dialect. His was called Cola (pronounced Vula). 85% of Fijians are Christian (methodist), the rest are Hindu/other. He wrote off the military coup that happened last December as "war talk", and I agree taht there seems to be little visible evidence of any military presence, especially out in the Yasawa island groups. He had a wife and four children who lived in the village on the other side of the island, but he only got off work 1 week every 3 weeks to visit them.

I visited a village on Naviti Island, but was not told by the fellow at the resort, Moses, that I was supposed to bring a gift of kava or money when I visited. Therefore, not knowing what to expect, I walked the 1.5 hour walk over the crest of the island. Approaching town, old women collecting palm fronds stopped their work to shout BULA! and inquire in faltering English where I was from. Not a person saw me without greeting me cheerfully. An old fellow named William proffered me a cocanut which he had decapitated with his machete. Another old man named Samson bid me to visit him, and he asked me if I had a guide or a gift. I was rather embarrassed that I didn't, and he said it was OK since I didn't know better. (Moses told me later that he thought I was joking about visiting the village....) I must say this village was unlike any of the ones I visited in South America - the most notable difference being the lack of roads large enough for cars. I suppose the only substantial form of transportation there is by boat... they don't even use horses. (There really isn't anywhere to go on the island but the resorts, or maybe another village.)

After leaving Naviti, I had an unfortunate night on the Wana Taki party boat. I spent most of the time sleeping because I was just not in the mood for drinking with college kids.

Now I am on Waya Laila island. The resort lies on a hillside with thd dorm and the cafeteria overlooking the grass huts, which overlook the beach. I was able to go to church here, but I didn't realize the service would be almost entirely in Fijian. Despite that, the choir's 3-part singing was magnificent - enough gusto from 12 people to raise the hairs on your arms. It was also amusing to watch the mongrel dog who would come wandering through the church, and the old woman who would smack! it on its haunches to chase it off.

I must note that the Fijian women are very different from Western women. They wear massive afros like helmets, and they are quite hefty / full-figured women themselves. It's been a thing of wonder.

I am off to the mainland in 2 more days, and then on my way to Cairns, Australia! I will be able to catch up with photo uploading and emails then!

Labels: fiji, people, resort, sailing, village

On Naviti Island, where the internet is $4.50 per 15 minutes. Needless to say, I won't be checking in much over the next 3 days. This resort features bula dancing, techno style, under techno lights, but the grass skirts are still employed. I snuck off the end of the line to avoid the macarena style line dancing.

There is an amazing reef right off of a very nice beach right here. Much snorkeling and hiking is in the queue.

Cutting this blog short, my time is almost up!

Labels: fiji

I left Cook Islands on Friday. Crossing the International Date Line, I landed in Fiji, 4 hours later, Saturday night. Strange.

I saw little of the main island, Nadi, but I don't think I'm missing much. It looks busy and run down. The tour of the Yasawa Island group, northwest of the main island, began Sunday morning.

Awesome Fiji Adventures owns a huge white catamaran that runs a daily route through the end of the Yasawa islands and back. They, with the hostels on the islands, are quite well organized, providing visitors with a booklet of vouchers for both accomodation, transport, and activities.

My first stop is Takewa Island, at a hostel named Coral View. It does seem to be a very young, party-ish crowd out here, and I've somewhat resolved to be friendly, but not to invest myself into connecting with people. Nevertheless, the island - and all the activities here - make it easy to stay more than entertained (well mostly... I still find myself reading my book far too much). I have already snorkeled in the harbor (saw an octupus and an sea snake), visited a partially submerged cave (an escorted trip), and gone scuba diving (saw a leopard shark, 2 octupuses, a huge puffer fish, a clown fish, and an amazing array of hard and soft corals).

The Fijian staff also make the stay quite agreeable, with overally exuberant greetings. Bula! Good morning! Hello! Several have remembered my name already, and they never ignore me. At lunch they sang a parting song for those visitors who are moving on to another island, and the song was the most depressed dirge I've heard! Fit for a mournful funeral.

Internet is scarce out here, much less computers with access to desktop and USB, so I am trying to put up photos as I can.

Labels: fiji, people, scuba, snorkeling, wildlife

My luxury bus last night was not so luxurious. I was apparently booked in the economy class, on the 2nd floor of a double decker. My kingdom was a dingy seat, with front row viewing of a bootlegged copy of Eragon with bad Spanish dubbing. (Seriously, I think have yet to see a legit copy of a movie on a South American bus.)

Here are some upcoming plans I am making from dreary, chilly Lima. (Once this is all set I will go explore the "social center" Miraflores district, which so far has seemed fairly upscale and overpriced. Oh - and good news - the hotel we booked is right next to a very nice super-walmart equivalent. Can restock adequately!)

Bolivia
GAP Bolivia Discovery Tour, 11 days, need sub-zero sleeping bag, rentable. !!! Tour to commence same day Shannon & co leave Peru.

Fiji
Awesome Fiji Tour, 7 days, hopefully bright and cheery, amongst the Yasawa Island Chain.

Australia
Aussie Bas Pass, good for 45 days, along the East Coast of Australia. I hope to follow the sunshine.

Shannon & co arrive Weds, hopefully with my laptop and a new camera. Can{t wait!!

Labels: australia, bolivia, fiji, lima, peru, weather