I am sitting in the back of the campervan, which is parked amongst large Christmas-tree conifers, right off a road that is 17km away from nowhere! The only life we passed on the way out here was hundreds of grazing sheeps and cows, who are all mindless of the light, cold rainfall. We registered at the do-it-yourself camp registration stand, and found a lakeside campsite, accessible by dirt road. The lake was lined by the same flowers that line the roads all around here. These flowers look remarkably like blue bonnets, but larger and more columnus, and in brilliant, yet bittersweet palette of purple and pink.

The lake is not the piercing, milky azure color that the other lakes we saw today were, which are made so blue by refracted light on rock flour; rather it's darker and moodier. It reminds me of some mood rings I saw in a souvenir shop that were all a dark blue that the information key said meant "depressed." The lake is more indecisive in mood. A set of glacier-scarred Mt. Dooms loom above the colorless water.

Mom is fixing burritos, and the rain / hail finally stopped.

After crossing over to the South Island, we headed south to Kaikoura, snaking down a Highway 1 that reminds me of California's Highway 1 in its cliffy proximity to oceaniness (descriptive?!). Here, we saw a few turquoise bays with dark gray sanded beaches, a few seal colonies, where the flubber monsters hung out in geometrically interesting strands of floating kelp. We camped south of the town of Kaikoura, and I tried swimming a bit in the pre-tidal pool waters. After I swam out of the shallows, the artic water hit my mind and froze my thoughts, so I swam back to shore.

The clouds are breaking, and the shine illuminates the mountain across the lake.

After Kaikoura, we headed past Christchurch to Lake Tekapo and Mt. Cook. Tekapo and the lakes around here truly are Martian in their other-wordliness. T blue, the pink and purple royal road-lining, along with the snow-capped matterhorn-looking Mt. Cook in the distance, and you have some views that are supra-bobrossian. Beyond Lake Kutapi the water petered out into a glacial snail trail valley. The glacier's flight path is clearly discernible, as the flat valley is sharply hemmed in by mountains.

The campervan lifestyle is good, although I am regretting passing through all these beautiful areas without being able to hike/explore them by foot. My foot is still not in a condition to handle that though. In lieu of hiking, I get the exercise of safe driving. If AC's arm floats to the !! handle, then I know I'm going too fast.

Off to Milford Sound!

Labels: auntcarol, campervan, colors, kaikoura, lakes, mom, mountcook, newzealand, sheep

Two jobs that will always be in demand in NZ: sheep shearers and gardeners. NZ countryside looks like it's been processed and reprocessed. There are partially shorn hillsides (and covered with sheep!), clumps of jungly brush here, nicely ordered pine trees there, all edged in by nicely mowed grass. All of NZ must have been cleared of all its natural vegetation and then replanted. All to good effect though.

I convinced AC and Mom to avoid the expensive holiday parks that include trampolines, swimming pools, huge kitchens and laundry facilities. Instead, we found a random camping site along a white-water river and white cliffs, with few facilities, but with a great view! Here, Aunt Carol fixed a fine Thanksgiving dinner in our gas stove and oven. Deli roast chicken with a dollop of stuffing, microwave potatoes, zucchini and kiwi. And a half burnt apple pie for dessert!

Yesterday we visited Rotorua ("Rotorouter") to see thermal wonders. Today we took the Bluebridge ferry from the North Island to the South. The massive ferry floats into a deep inlet bay into the South Island, lined by cliffs and spotted by occasional islands. Soon we will be off to Kaikoura.

Labels: auntcarol, mom, newzealand

Let me reintroduce myself as Robin, bus driver, chauffeur, escort extraordinaire.

The logo on the campervan says it all: "Adventure". Our adventure in Auckland began with trying to start the campervan. The ornery key, stubbornly stuck in the ignition would respond to no coaxing, begging, wheel pushing, or brake stomping. Until finally it yielded to a strange man who helped us out, go figure. I clipped the curb as I pulled the campervan precariously out of the airport parking lot. How's that for exciting stuff!

We quickly learned that navigating in Auckland was not easy. (Mom's directions are as such: "Should we turn right on Williamson? I'm not sure if that's the right road. Hmm.") Mom had her first experience with the Maoris, asking them for directions in the midst of a crowded shopping street. Alas, my hands sweaty and my face set in deathly pallor, we found the caravan park, and not knowing how to hook up the water, gas, or waste, we settled with Chinese takeout for dinner, and turned in.

Auckland proved scary and boring, and I was glad when we escaped it the next day. Emerald greenery awaited us in the sub-tropical, mountainous country side. The piercing greeness of it reminded me of Costa Rica. The magnifcent mountains that met the ocean reminded me of Venezuela. The unendingly splendid scenery reminded me of the Andes. And yet, here was a whole new set of flora - I could only recognize the ferntrees of Australia. Some new birds greet me too: a couple of which I've heard such soft and enchanting bird songs from the bushes. And note: as of yet, no flies here!

Today, we took a cruise amongst the Bay of Islands, north of Auckland. The hope was to be able to swim with dolphins, but I guess we're doing good just to see a huge pod of dolphins. Restrictions are such that you are not allowed to swim with the dolphins if juvenile dolphins are present in the pod, because the babies will spend too much time playing with humans instead of drinking milk from their mothers. They need the constant milk from their mothers to keep warm - hypothermia in these warm-blooded creatures being a major problem. I would rather imagine that most pods would contain juveniles though, since big pods consist of females, and females are always reproducing. I guess you only get to swim with males?

We're headed south again, along such snake-like 1-lane roads - remember I'm driving a barge! Despite it's difficult handling, the campervan life is free-ing and exciting though. We have cooked a couple meals on the campervan's gas stove, the fridge is stocked, and our clothes are all hidden in tiny little bins. I sleep in the loft above the cab - a spot big enough for 2 children - I can just barely stretch out.

To Rotorua and beyond!

Labels: auntcarol, bayofislands, campervan, driving, mom, newzealand, scenery

I'm sitting here listening to "True Blue" by John Williamson - the classic Australian singer - on my last eve in Australia. Does this sum up the Australians I've met?

True Blue, is it me and you
Is it Mum and Dad, is it a co-ockatoo
Is it standin' by your mate when he's in a fight
Or just Vegemi-ite
True-ue-ue Blue, I'm a-asking you


I'm asking you!

Perhaps if I had a moment to reflect, I could tell you. As is, Mom and AC have taken Sydney by storm, with me, their loyal, humble escort. Saturday, by red double decker tourist bus line, complete with commentary and 31 stops. Opera house, Manly Beach ferry, Maritime Museum!

Today, an ultra-touristy bus tour to a wildlife park and the Blue Mountains. By now, I have seen and done such things too many times now. I am a pro at Australian day tours. So I can say that the kangaroos at the Australian wildlife park zoo looked a little more dejected and bored than roos at other parks, and the tour felt a little rushed. A few good moments though: a white peacock (peacocks aren't Australian!) on a shed roof, sqwaking, while flaring its tail in consternation as a crocodile below it lunged at some bait food. I finally saw a cassowary - the endangered emu-like bird of the tropical rainforest in the north, whose eating and spreading of fruits is required in the germination and distribution of many species of trees.

I also finally saw the blue mountains - no fog like last time. The mountains were... true blue.

Tomorrow we are off to New Zealand, with nary a sentimental last glimpse at Australia. By now, the left side of the road feels more natural than the right, eucalypts and cockatoos are ordinary, and I am beginning to say "mate" and "mozzies". Flies don't bother me anymore, and my skin doesn't burn anymore either. Australia is in my blood, and I am not sure I will fully realize the impact it has had on me until I leave. A magnificent country.

Important notes for future travelers:

1. By far the best way to get around for trips longer than a couple weeks is by car. Buying one and reselling at the end is the most economical way, and affords the most freedom.



2. Australia is more expensive than the United States. Prices are extremely inflated, and even with the (slightly) stronger US dollar, Australia prices still are high.



3. Flies cover the entire continent. If flies bother you, Australia is not for you. (Although you may be safer in the cities.)



4. The West is huge and mainly offers: gorges, swimming holes, and its coastline, which features the little known Ningaloo Reef. I think this would make for a great scuba trip in the future.

Labels: auntcarol, australia, bluemountains, mom, sydney, tours, wildlife

Back in Sydney, I await the arrival of MOM (and Aunt Carol). The pressure is on to play expert Sydney tour guide, navigating the transit system with ease, gliding stress-lessly through a chaotic city.

But in the meantime, I've checked into the inn my mom reserved, and I am enjoying all the fine luxuries of the rich and famous. Irons and ironing boards, full length mirrors, ensuite bathrooms, big white towels, a refrigerator, control over an AC system, a safe, and complimentary coffee. There is even wireless in the room for only $2/hr! What more could I ask for?

I am taking my leave of Stacey now, who remains at the YHA hostel in Sydney for another week. Mom, AC and I leave for NZ on the 20th.

Labels: auntcarol, australia, luxury, mom, stacey, sydney

The immediate sensation, on climbing into the tour bus yesterday, was the singular smell of foul air on the bus. Hmm, an interesting way to start a tour. Soon enough, 21 of us tourists were off to an Australian wildlife park to enjoy kangaroos, koalas, who you are not allowed to cuddle with - by law! - in the state of Victoria, wallabies, dingos, emus, wombats, and a tasmanian devil. Stacey resisted this overly touristy encounter with "wildlife" - I think such sentimental displays of cutesiness were counter to his big, bad man image. I guess I don't mind joining in such shamelessness, though, because I always ask a ton of questions about the animals at the same time - so it becomes an unrivaled learning experience.

We drove to King Philip Island - a large island a few 100 meters off the main land, bordered on the south by Bass Strait, which separates Australia from Tasmania. On the island we visited Woolami Beach - a famous surfing beach, and a volcanic rocky outcrop home to fur seals, called the Knobbies. The green hills around the Knobbies are covered with miniscule purple and yellow flowers, and a slew of seagull nests. A boardwalk leads along these hills, overlooking the strange volcanic rocks which emerge from the madly chaotic ocean. The numbers of sea gulls, frantically busy with their nesting duties, sqwaking, demonstrating, fighting, appealing for food, burrowing in the green, produced the affect of walking through a little city of birds. This, with such a grand view of ocean waves, and black basalt rocks made me feel transported to another world.

The highlight of the tour causes the massing of hundreds of tourists behind two roped-in grand stands at the top of the beach, to watch the world's smallest penguin emerge from the ocean's side, right after dark, and scurry apprehensively up the beach to find their nests in the hillsides. Odd it was - the little black and white birds appearing in groups of 20 or 30, way yonder, stepping forward fearfully until a swooping gull would dive at them and they'd run back to the water. Meanwhile, another group farther down the shore would storm the beach with a war whoop (well maybe not that), and waddling aggresively, would cross the open stretch of sand within a couple minutes. A lost penguin, blue back glistening like a fish's skin, would then wander right in front of the crowd, oblivious to all the Japanese Ooooo's.

Leaving the grand stands, you could wander up the beach yourself, and watch penguins finding thier burrows in the green hillsides. A few displays of domestic violence, as mr. penguin would be chased out of the house by an irrate house-penguin. (Although admittedly, the pairs take turns watching the nest.) The penguins were everywhere on the island, so you didn't need to look very hard to find them.

This day excursion followed several enjoyable days in Melbourne. My Dutch friend from the Western Exposure tour, Annemarie, was also in town. Stacey, she and I explored the city for 2 days. Melbourne seems to have it all - from an extremely interesting and compact downtown, to bike lanes, and huge cheap markets, a comprehensive tram system, free tourist buses, good recycling programs, and a multitude of parks and sporting areas. The diversity, as I mentioned before, makes for excellent people watching. So far my favorite Australian city.

Now I am back in Sydney. In a couple days my mom and aunt arrive: doom and chaos. (haha, just kidding, Mom!)

Labels: australia, kingphilip, melbourne, stacey, tourists, tours, wildlife

So Stacey's contacts went and annihiliated themselves... somewhere in Sydney. They are completely MIA, and we are now in Melbourne. Stacey is a bit on shaky ground without these contacts, so some madness has ensued in chasing the trail of the ghost contacts. A call to Sydney Airport, where security so non-chalantly ripped the guts out of Stacey's backpack to fry it in the X-ray scanner. A call to the unfortunate party hostel we stayed at as a last resort. (The Scottish? girls had staggered in at 4am and taken 1-2 of the 3 internet computers. Their English is nearly not English at all, but a confused gurgle. The advertised wireless didn't work there.) Stacey decided to enlist the Mom-transport system (who has yet to be informed) to deliver a new more-valuable-than-gold contact, when she arrives on the 16th - that, failing the intelligent people working at the hostel actually finding the contact.

We took a break from the Hunt to go visit a gym in the town center. A tram ride to town, a swim in a 30 meter pool (makes for more difficult pace calculations), and I was feeling refreshed. We decided to find a new contact case for Stacey, which led to all kinds of interesting places. A Korean grocery store that had hair dye next to q-tips; another grocery store manned by a comical Asian fellow ("We have razor, BUT NOT FOR YOUR HEAD!!!"), a theater, a carpark nestled by skyscrapers, Aldi - a 99 cent store feeling bulk goods store (lots of laundry detergent there), and finally a well-hidden shopping mall. While Stacey spent his time in the toilet, I let the diversity of the crowd whirl my head. A wide array of Asians, Greeks, Indians, whites, etc, but Stacey is the only black, and still gets a lot of stares. (A man the other day came up to him and asked if he was from Africa. !?!?! ) The fashion is likewise across the board - suave suits to super-punk to sporty and Asian chic, etc...

Finally we found Safeway, which referred us to the pharmacy upstairs in the corner, which referred us to the optometrist shop 2 doors down. Alas, a little plastic case was successfully secured, and we were able to go shopping for food - roast beef.

Much disappointment back at the hostel when I found that my cold foods bag had been stolen. Mayonnaise, butter, pears and green apples are GONE. Note that I brought this food with me on the plane from Sydney. Stacey and I are going to find some high security refrigerator system - chain mail and locks, to make sure are future grub stays in place.

Stacey's blog.

Labels: australia, culture, food, melbourne, people, stacey

The Blue Mountains lie east of Sydney, 2 hours by train. Not so much of mountains as a high shelf of rolling hill-age, the "blue" relates to the olive + maroon coloring of the eucalypt forests. This area, a World Heritage sight, has 13% of the world's eucalypts, including 90 different species of eucalypt. I can almost see a eucalyptus tree from here, from the old-timey hearthy dining room of the YHA in Tacoomba. The tree is shrouded in mist, swaying in the windy rain. The weather has been quite dismal, and watching Stacey shiver against the undesertly cold has inspired me into a winter mindset. We are staying inside, spending too much time online, and enjoying the large kitchen ("would be good for a fight out in a movie," I said. "Looks like a French kitchen," he responded), the warm fire, the highly available power points, and the view of the couches. The patronage here is also a bit older and mature. Several elderly couples, a couple families help to relax the vibe around here.

So as of yet, the view from the train was the best view we have had of the Blue Mountains. First, was the exodus from Sydney, through redundant suburbs. Graffiti along the tracks, almost quaint architecture, if you ask me. I didn't see any suburbage that was quite as careless as some coookie-cutter American suburbs. Next, into the mountains. A few cockatoos ("Stacey, look there!" "Where?" "Oh, too, late."), the reddish tinted trees, and a few small towns. Grey skies.

I have been enjoying having Stacey to travel with. We poked around Sydney all of Tuesday - strolling until the feet hurt, resting, and then strolling some more. We walked to the Rocks from Glebe - a bunch of historic hotels around there. Along the wharfs until we caught sight of the opera house. The green - black color of the bay water is reflected in some of the buildings and fences around the area. We visited the Museum of Modern Art, which had a disappointing, self-absorbed exhibition by Julie Rrap, and then on a whim, caught a ferry to Manly Beach. The whole day, we were dodging wind and and a cold breeze. (Off goes the jacket, now back on...)

Stacey's photos

On Friday, we are off to Melbourne.

Labels: australia, bluemountains, stacey, sydney

I woke up early to catch the private line train to Sydney airport. The irritable Canadian had snored, choked, and garbled most noisily throughout the night, and I didn't fall asleep til late. I took care in the morning packing my backpack, so the weight would be well-distributed across my shoulders, and I could stand comfortably with all my gear in the airport for a while.

QF40 - Stacey's flight. I waited at Exit A/B for about an hour before Stacey showed up - same benevolent giant, but a bit trimmer. It is good to have an 1) American 2) friend 3) that I can trust and 4) discuss in depth with. Right now though, he's resting, while I have found the grocery store in Glebe district. This area has trendy bookshops and cafes and a fairly business-class pedestrian base.

The next four weeks of travel = travel with friends and family. I am glad to have a new constant element added to my adventures. Nomadic relations get old.

Labels: australia, people, sydney

It is nice to wake up after a deep, restful sleep and find yourself in a new city. But not just any city - Sydney! Buses, planes and trains later, I'm finally here, staying at the Central YHA, in a room with a Canadian who breaks out into singing "Yesterday" and complains of having to use locks on lockers.

The end of the 5 day tour turned out better than the first part. Western Exposure had combined the 3-day and 5-day tours to the southwest. So as soon as the 3-dayers left, who were mostly a rowdy bunch of British folks, it was a bit easier to manage in a smaller group. Plus, we arrived in Esperance shortly after. The beaches there were quite idyllic - the sand white and water bluer than anything I saw in Fiji. Unfortunately, it was a bit too cold out to go swimming. Nevertheless, just walking along beautiful beaches was very pleasing. I also befriended a soccer-playing German school teacher named Armin, from Munich area. We were able to chat, so this made the trip more enjoyable.

My ankle is improving quickly. I have been able to do some light hiking without too much pain. Travel continues as normal, slightly desensitized, sans full ankle function.

Labels: australia, esperance, westernaustralia