Jonas was a fisherman yachtee from San Francisco, who set anchor in the bay next to Korovou resort. With Richard Gere looks and surfer-dude talk, he provided a good dose of American, that I had not been privy to for a few weeks. He is sailing around the world in his 35 foot yacht by himself. The stories! It is a whole other life to drift with wind and current to discover the world, and anchor in places where no other tourist can manage to infiltrate. I have silently added sailing around the world as something that would be agreeable to do... right up there with visiting the moon.

My 3 nights at Korovou resort on Naviti island were quite enjoyable not only because of good conversation with Jonas, but also another American, the 3rd burnt-out lawyer I've met, who was interested in triathlon pursuits, and therefore flattered me with a million questions about it. Also, the Fijians were very friendly there. One silent, thoughtful fellow named Kiloti, who could musingly croon over his guitar, gave me a bit of the scoop on the Fijian life. Apparently there is one Fijian language, called Bula!, and each island has its own dialect. His was called Cola (pronounced Vula). 85% of Fijians are Christian (methodist), the rest are Hindu/other. He wrote off the military coup that happened last December as "war talk", and I agree taht there seems to be little visible evidence of any military presence, especially out in the Yasawa island groups. He had a wife and four children who lived in the village on the other side of the island, but he only got off work 1 week every 3 weeks to visit them.

I visited a village on Naviti Island, but was not told by the fellow at the resort, Moses, that I was supposed to bring a gift of kava or money when I visited. Therefore, not knowing what to expect, I walked the 1.5 hour walk over the crest of the island. Approaching town, old women collecting palm fronds stopped their work to shout BULA! and inquire in faltering English where I was from. Not a person saw me without greeting me cheerfully. An old fellow named William proffered me a cocanut which he had decapitated with his machete. Another old man named Samson bid me to visit him, and he asked me if I had a guide or a gift. I was rather embarrassed that I didn't, and he said it was OK since I didn't know better. (Moses told me later that he thought I was joking about visiting the village....) I must say this village was unlike any of the ones I visited in South America - the most notable difference being the lack of roads large enough for cars. I suppose the only substantial form of transportation there is by boat... they don't even use horses. (There really isn't anywhere to go on the island but the resorts, or maybe another village.)

After leaving Naviti, I had an unfortunate night on the Wana Taki party boat. I spent most of the time sleeping because I was just not in the mood for drinking with college kids.

Now I am on Waya Laila island. The resort lies on a hillside with thd dorm and the cafeteria overlooking the grass huts, which overlook the beach. I was able to go to church here, but I didn't realize the service would be almost entirely in Fijian. Despite that, the choir's 3-part singing was magnificent - enough gusto from 12 people to raise the hairs on your arms. It was also amusing to watch the mongrel dog who would come wandering through the church, and the old woman who would smack! it on its haunches to chase it off.

I must note that the Fijian women are very different from Western women. They wear massive afros like helmets, and they are quite hefty / full-figured women themselves. It's been a thing of wonder.

I am off to the mainland in 2 more days, and then on my way to Cairns, Australia! I will be able to catch up with photo uploading and emails then!

Labels: fiji, people, resort, sailing, village